Delhi is northern India’s largest city. One part of it, known as New Delhi is officially designated the capital of India, but the names are often used interchangeably.
Delhi is said to be one of the oldest existing cities in the world, along with Damascus and Varanasi. Legend estimates it to be over 5000 years old. Over the millennia, Delhi is said to have been built and destroyed 11 times.
The Red Fort (Lal Qila) is one of Delhi’s top tourist sights. A brilliant red sandstone fort built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan (who also built Agra’s Taj Mahal) as his ruling palace. Completed in 1648, the years since have not treated the buildings kindly: the rooms have long since been stripped of all objects, the marble inlays are long gone and quite a few buildings are off limits. Still, the scale remains imposing and the gardens are kept lush and green even in midwinter. Major buildings within include:
- Chatta Chowk (Covered Bazaar). True to the name, this is a covered bazaar between the gate and the fort itself, now filled with souvenir hawkers.
- Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience). This building separates the outer court from the inner court, and has a marble platform for the emperor’s throne.
- Hayat Baksh Bagh (Life-Bestowing Gardens). Once a grand garden of full of fountains and streams, now sadly all dry — only dry channels and acres of green grass remain.
- Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience). Built completely of marble, this is where the emperor received special visitors.
- Khas Mahal (Private Palace). The Emperor’s main residence. The octagonal Mussaman Burj tower looks out toward the Yamuna River, and is where the Emperor used to appear before the public for each morning.
- Rang Mahal (Colour Palace). The residence of the Sultan’s main wife.
- Mumtaz Mahal (Jewel Palace). Contained six apartments for the Sultan’s harem. Now used as a museum of court textiles, carpets, weapons, etc (free).
- Daawat Khana. A minor palace at the northmost end of the Fort, this was originally the residence of a prince, but it was converted into a tea house by the British, a function it continues today. Basic meals go for around Rs. 60, drinks Rs. 10-20, and it also has the cleanest toilets around.
- Swatantra Sangrama Sangrahalaya (Museum of the Independence Movement). To the left after the Chatta Chowk, this is a reasonably well-presented museum on the history of independence activism in India, starting from the Mutiny of 1857 all the way to Gandhi.
The only open entrance is Lahore Gate, on the west side. Security in and around the Fort is very heavy, as it was the scene of a terrorist attack in 2000 that killed three people; bags are allowed, but they’ll be X-rayed and you’ll be patted down. Tickets cost Rs 10/100 for Indians/foreigners, photography free, video cameras Rs. 25 extra. Open sunrise to sunset daily except Monday. The most scenic way of reaching the fort is to take the Metro to Chawri Bazaar and then a cycle-rickshaw through the incredibly packed bazaar to the Fort (price negotiable, aim for Rs. 20).
The fort has a light and sound show (Rs.30) in the evenings between 7:30 and 9 PM depending on the season.
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Combining the skyscrapers and subways of a modern, affluent city with a medley of Chinese, Indian and Malay influences and a lush tropical climate, with tasty food, good shopping and a happening, vibrant nightlife scene, this Garden City makes a great stopover or springboard into the region.